Welcome back, Siouxi31!
Your canna sounds magnificent, congratulations!
It's been several years since I've grown cannas, but I should try them again next season. Around here (southern Ontario), they're still putting on their exotic display!
When the F&G forum was first started, we had a poster (male) who grew cannas, and shared some great pics and his expertise with us. Unfortunately those posts are gone (I think!), and I can't remember exactly who it was, or I'd PM him to ask for his advice.
I did find some info though, that you will probably find helpful, siouxi31. Well, I hope it is!!
Here you go!
~It's time to pack it up
By KATHLEEN EVANOFF Tribune Chronicle
I like to bring the look of the tropics to areas of my back yard in summer.
Huge leaved plants, colorful blossoms and variegated foliage complement the garden and add variety with the usual garden perennials.
Unfortunately, the bulbs will not withstand our winter freezes.
(Please note that botanically, these plants grow from bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers, but for convenience sake, we call all of them bulbs.)
Unlike bulbs that need periods of cold to send up blooms, plants like gladioli, tuberous begonia, canna and calla lilies, elephant ears, caladiums and dahlias will need to be lifted from the soil on or around the first heavy frost and stored indoors for the winter.
Many gardeners don't like to bother, but those who do find it worthwhile to have these higher maintenance plants in the garden feel it is worth the extra effort.
While most of these plants can endure a light frost or two, the foliage and blossoms will suffer.
That is our signal that we need to save what is underneath the soil.
There are a few things to consider before digging and a few supplies are needed as well.
These supplies include storage space; containers; some type of storage medium, such as sawdust, sand, peat moss or another porous material; and a good permanent marker.
Gently lift the bulbs from the soil with a garden fork. Dig several inches away from the plant to avoid piercing the bulb.
After lifting it from the soil, cut the tops of the plant to an inch or two and spread the clumps on a tarp or a few layers of newspaper in a well ventilated place to dry.
Drying time will depend on the size of the bulb. Once they have adequately dried, brush away any soil still clinging to the bulbs and dust them with a fungicide, such as Captan.
This will prevent mold from forming during storage.
Storage should be in a cool, dry, well ventilated area, possibly an attached garage that doesn't get below freezing, a basement or a spare room.
The ideal temperature is around 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
As far as storage containers, I like to use plastic milk crates, which are available at most department stores.
Wooden crates also are good containers as well as plastic tubs with several large holes punched in.
Creative gardeners will use everything and anything that works, including brown paper bags, pantyhose and mesh bags that once contained potatoes or onions.
Be sure to choose containers that allow sufficient air circulation.
Although the bulbs will be dried before storage, all of their moisture won't be gone and if air is not allowed to flow through the container, the bulbs will rot.
Put the same bulbs of each plant in different containers and use the permanent marker to write what is inside.
Since I like to know the species of each plant, I label them with their common and botanical names and their variety name as well.
If you are really into educating yourself about plants, add the family name too.
By seeing these names over and over, it becomes easier to remember and it will not only impress your friends but will give you more confidence when you can say you are storing Colocasia esculenta Black Magic, a member of the Araceae family.
They will be less impressed if you just say "elephant ears.''
Another reason for such extensive labeling is because esculenta isn't the only variety of elephant ears and Black Magic isn't the only hybrid.
Next year you may be disappointed when you thought you were putting that huge, black leaf next to an orange Tropicana canna lily, only to find out you planted a plain green one instead.
Place the treated bulbs in the containers between layers of medium, such as those mentioned above, and store.
When you are tired of winter in late March and early April, bring out the containers and plant the bulbs in pots.
Many of these tropical plants need a longer growing season to fully mature and flower.
Potting them about eight weeks before they need to go outside will give them a head start on the season.
Be sure to go through the bulbs and throw away any that have become soft and mushy.
They may look withered and dead, but once they are potted and given moisture, they will wake up from their dormancy and reward your work with another season of a lovely tropical garden.
Evanoff is a Master Gardener with The Ohio State University Extension of Trumbull County. ~
