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I heard on local radio today that high school teams can start working out on Monday (tropical storm pending). However, the schools can’t provide them with water due to coronavirus concerns.

Something about that combination seems dumb. Let the school provide cases of water so we don’t create worse problems with kids practicing in mid-summer Louisiana heat and humidity.
 
I heard on local radio today that high school teams can start working out on Monday (tropical storm pending). However, the schools can’t provide them with water due to coronavirus concerns.

Something about that combination seems dumb. Let the school provide cases of water so we don’t create worse problems with kids practicing in mid-summer Louisiana heat and humidity.
What?

Can't provide water? I'm having trouble following how that has to do with covid 19. Interesting.

Unless they are referring to the multi use water bottles that players use on sidelines.
 
Nope, it’s any water at all. And it does not make any sense.
The communal water bottles obviously need to go.
But kids/ parents need to bring their own water to practice
 
Friday they turned off all water fountains at work and the ice machines.
 


Water fountains I can see. That makes sense. Concentrated area and folks slobber all over it.
 
Took a drive to sonic for lunch Saturday and then to the RV dealer

F6D84620-314B-439A-BF61-90DC89F0E47F.jpeg

Bought some things for the MH before our trip.

51810735-AAE3-4EDB-A983-C9E98A6BF8A8.jpeg

New outdoor rug and two comfy chairs, a single and double.

Also picked up a surge guard.

0FCCFA4B-8520-4ABE-8AD5-C91823922539.jpeg

Not what I was wanting but they didn’t have a EMP ( I believe that’s what it’s called)
 
Also did some work on the MH today. De-winterized and made sure my pumps work with no leaking. turned on the water heater and left it on for several hours. Turned on the hot water faucet in the kitchen and the water ran hot then cold then hot. Is this normal ? :confused3 Or should I consider getting a new on or an on demand?

Also mounted a tv in the living area of the MH.

0FD336D6-14AB-494C-9BE1-4D51EA153C37.jpeg

This cabinet is between the passenger seat and the entry door. The only thing in there is our reusable cups from Universal and Aquatic.
8EF015B9-ABEB-413A-BCB8-EC530C8ECA16.jpeg

With the tv mounted. I will take the tv down and store under one of the dinette seats during travel and the DVD player will go in the cabine.

Switching from tent camping to RV is a lot of work. :faint:
 


Vince, I assume its gas and electric water heater? It may of had air in water heater tank. As long as its under pressure let hot water run 1-2 minutes then let it sit an hour and try it.

If same results, turn on gas water heater and give it an hour and see if same thing


If so, you might simply have a thermostat problem. They are cheap and easy to replace. I actually had to on our last trip to FW. Ordered on Amazon and had shipped to FW.

Let us know.
 
Mine is just LP. I pulled the drain plug on the outside and ran my city hookup to flush out any antifreeze that was in there. When I put the plug back in I did turn on all three faucets to clear out any air in the lines. I figured it is because of it being a small tank that is why I’m getting hot then cold. It’s not like it starts out hot then gets cold over time
 
Also did some work on the MH today. De-winterized and made sure my pumps work with no leaking. turned on the water heater and left it on for several hours. Turned on the hot water faucet in the kitchen and the water ran hot then cold then hot. Is this normal ? :confused3 Or should I consider getting a new on or an on demand?

Also mounted a tv in the living area of the MH.

View attachment 499677

This cabinet is between the passenger seat and the entry door. The only thing in there is our reusable cups from Universal and Aquatic.
View attachment 499678

With the tv mounted. I will take the tv down and store under one of the dinette seats during travel and the DVD player will go in the cabine.

Switching from tent camping to RV is a lot of work. :faint:

Most likely a 6 gallon tank and on electric you may get hot then cold, but only if you have used the 6 gallons. Otherwise, as Tiggerdad said it maybe air in the tank, you should have an overpressure valve, I always flip that open when I fill my system, so I know that the water heater tank is full, then of course push all the rest of the air out by opening the faucets until they stop sputtering.
We run electric and propane when we shower in the RV, but otherwise the electric is usually fine to keep up. The other thing to remember is depending on how your lines are run, you may have some temperature swings until you get that water from the tank thru the lines and to the faucet, as most are not insulated in any way.
 
Most likely a 6 gallon tank and on electric you may get hot then cold, but only if you have used the 6 gallons. Otherwise, as Tiggerdad said it maybe air in the tank, you should have an overpressure valve, I always flip that open when I fill my system, so I know that the water heater tank is full, then of course push all the rest of the air out by opening the faucets until they stop sputtering.
We run electric and propane when we shower in the RV, but otherwise the electric is usually fine to keep up. The other thing to remember is depending on how your lines are run, you may have some temperature swings until you get that water from the tank thru the lines and to the faucet, as most are not insulated in any way.

Thanks, I will give that a try next weekend. Just trying to make sure everything is good for the second trip out since owning.
 
Mine is just LP. I pulled the drain plug on the outside and ran my city hookup to flush out any antifreeze that was in there. When I put the plug back in I did turn on all three faucets to clear out any air in the lines. I figured it is because of it being a small tank that is why I’m getting hot then cold. It’s not like it starts out hot then gets cold over time

If it starts hot then switches quickly to cold you may still have a bypass in place after winterizing?
 
Thanks, I will give that a try next weekend. Just trying to make sure everything is good for the second trip out since owning.

Any check valves maybe messing up? My old trailer did not come with a check valve around water heater, but I did end up getting on installed on the cold water intake side of the heater tank (because where the cold water line split to go into tank or on through the cold water lines was so close to tank that if you turned on cold water, it actually sucked some hot water out of the tank into the cold water line)...so kids would turn on cold water, get cold for a few seconds (the cold water that was already in the line up to the faucet) and then get a few seconds of scalding hot (the hot water that the initial suction of turning on pulled out back through the intake line into the cold line) and then back to the cold water as that initial suction replaced by the cold water pressure coming in from the hose connection. So, bottom line was kids looking for cold water ended up getting burned for 2-3 seconds just a few seconds after turning on cold water... ended up having them install a check valve in the cold water intake line right before the tank to stop it. Kind of the opposite problem of you I guess... you getting cold when trying for hot, but wonder if there are any funny valve problems or something in line just downstream of your tank...
 
I don’t believe there are any check valves. I talked to the previous owner at work today and told him what was going on. He told me that under the bathroom sink there are three shut off valve, which I knew. He told me I probably opened or closed them when winterizing / de-winterizing and on of them needs to be almost closed. Here are the three pipes under the sink.

684ED7D5-7341-4935-8277-73103FE82057.jpegProbably the small crossover valve. I will do some adjusting with them over the weekend. Thanks everyone.
 
That pic looks like they are set for the "winterized" position. (water heater bypassed). The handles on the valves don't look like they are lined up very well, but...

For normal operation, the valve on the right connecting the 2 lines should be closed. The ones on the left should go to the water heater, they both need to be open.

For winterized- reverse them. Close the ones to the tank, open the crossover.

I suspect all of them are open right now allowing cold water to come over the crossover.

j
 
That pic looks like they are set for the "winterized" position. (water heater bypassed). The handles on the valves don't look like they are lined up very well, but...

For normal operation, the valve on the right connecting the 2 lines should be closed. The ones on the left should go to the water heater, they both need to be open.

For winterized- reverse them. Close the ones to the tank, open the crossover.

I suspect all of them are open right now allowing cold water to come over the crossover.

j

Thanks, I will give that a try. All three are in the open position now.
 
Thanks, I will give that a try. All three are in the open position now.
Close the crossover and you should be good. I'm surprised it was even getting hot. Path of least resistance. I guess the extra pressure from the water getting hot was enough to push out some hot. Once the tank equalized pressure to the water source, the source water went through the bypass.

j
 
Yeah, first time I adjusted mine after first winterized I had a hiccup with it too. The next year the crossover valve stuck and I had to replace it.
 
I have way to many valves. The three under the sink, two more under kitchen sink and four under the bunk with the water tank and fresh water. :faint:
 
I have way to many valves. The three under the sink, two more under kitchen sink and four under the bunk with the water tank and fresh water. :faint:

Since you dont have a check valve you have a 3 valve system. When you winterize, close the two inline valves to the water heater and open the bypass. This keeps you from needing to fill the water heater with antifreeze to winterize. Come time to dewinterize, close the bypass/passthrough valve and open the two inline ot the water heater. My first coach had this from the factory plus many more valves for other things to winterize.
 

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