ChiSoxKeith
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2010
Great shots!
How to shoot fireworks
- Thread starter bazzanoid
- Start date
AlbertZeroK
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2010
Amazing! I love my Sigma 30mm f/1.4. Great Shots!
Last night I had an opportunity to test my new DSLR out on some fireworks. Since I am new to the DSLR world, I went with my stepmom, who had some instructions from a class she took years ago. We followed the instructions as they were written, but got terrible results! I think I figured out a few things I should try differently, but I'd appreciate some input to be sure.
I was trying to get results similar to what I saw in this recent Fourth of July thread: http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=2500779
Instead, I got images that were blurry and blown-out. I just tried to upload some pics, but for some reason that is not working for me. Does anybody know what changed with the image uploader? I usually use Photobucket and that icon that looks like a mountain, but the mountain is different now, and not working...
Here are the instructions my stepmom had:
1. set camera to manual function
2. set shutter to bulb setting
3. set aperture settin to f/8 (shouldn't this be lower?)
4. set ISO to 400 (shouldn't this be lower too?)
5. set white balance to AWB
6. set camera/lens to manual focus (I believe this is what caused every picture to come out blurry - why would I want manual focus???)
7. adjust focus to infinity setting (we were confused what this meant - does that mean zoom out as far as your lens will allow?)
8. attach cable or shutter release
9. attach camera to tripod
The amount of seconds I used was varied.
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever tried the fisheye for fireworks?
Should I not waste my time? 
I was trying to get results similar to what I saw in this recent Fourth of July thread: http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=2500779
Instead, I got images that were blurry and blown-out. I just tried to upload some pics, but for some reason that is not working for me. Does anybody know what changed with the image uploader? I usually use Photobucket and that icon that looks like a mountain, but the mountain is different now, and not working...
Here are the instructions my stepmom had:
1. set camera to manual function
2. set shutter to bulb setting
3. set aperture settin to f/8 (shouldn't this be lower?)
4. set ISO to 400 (shouldn't this be lower too?)
5. set white balance to AWB
6. set camera/lens to manual focus (I believe this is what caused every picture to come out blurry - why would I want manual focus???)
7. adjust focus to infinity setting (we were confused what this meant - does that mean zoom out as far as your lens will allow?)
8. attach cable or shutter release
9. attach camera to tripod
The amount of seconds I used was varied.
- By far the biggest issue was that not one single picture was in focus. As we were taking the pictures, they looked decent on the view screen, but on my computer at home, they looked horrible. After I realized they were all out of focus, I played with my settings for a long time last night, trying to figure out why the darn thing wasn't focusing on anything, before I finally remembered step 6. The second I changed it back to auto focus, all was right with the world again.
- But there is still the issue of many of them being blown-out. They looked nothing like what I saw in the Fourth of July thread. Do I just need to change the F-stop and ISO? If so, what should they have been?
- What does infinity setting mean?
- And finally, I only brought my 28-75mm lens, and it turned out that we were so close that 28mm was too close. Am I going to have that problem on Main Street USA? What lens / length does everyone usually use? Here's what I've got in my arsenal:
- Canon 18-55 kit lens
- Canon 55-250 add-on lens
- Tamron 28-75 f/2.8
- Canon 50mm f/1.8 prime
- Canon 85 mm f/1.8 prime (arriving Monday)
- Sigma 10mm f/2.8 fisheye
Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever tried the fisheye for fireworks?
Should I not waste my time? Trying one more time to upload the photos... yes! Looks like it will work this time.
These were pretty much the best pictures I got. The rest were so bad you can't look at them without your eyes tearing up.
This was the grand finale
These were pretty much the best pictures I got. The rest were so bad you can't look at them without your eyes tearing up.
This was the grand finale
Altair
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2010
The photos are not out of focus, they are just over exposed. Either close down your lens or set a slower ISO. Or you can increase your shutter speed. You just need to reduce the amount of light.
Focusing on infinitiy means focusing so the objects farthest away are in focus. Manual focus lenses had a mark on them showing infinity. Try not to focus all the way to the max, always back off a little.
Focusing on infinitiy means focusing so the objects farthest away are in focus. Manual focus lenses had a mark on them showing infinity. Try not to focus all the way to the max, always back off a little.
Ok, I think I get the infinity thing now. I didn't understand how to manually focus, but I just figured it out.
What do you mean by close down your lens? And increase your shutter speed? I had it on Bulb... so, don't leave it open as long?
Mr.MouseFan
<font color=blue>Is a line cutter<br><font color=g
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2000
Here are a couple of my latest fireworks pics with EXIF info for reference. Have a great time at WDW and best of luck with the fireworks pics! It helps if you've seen Wishes or Illuminations before so you know when you want to take a shot. Last time I was at Magic Kingdom for fireworks, I focused on the castle.
F/9
5 seconds
ISO 100
Exposure Bias -3 step (will definitely shoot without the bias next time)
From July 4th (Not at WDW)
F/18
6 seconds
ISO 100
F/18
6 seconds
ISO 100
F/9
5 seconds
ISO 100
Exposure Bias -3 step (will definitely shoot without the bias next time)
From July 4th (Not at WDW)
F/18
6 seconds
ISO 100
F/18
6 seconds
ISO 100
Altair
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2010
Instead of f/8 try f/11 which is 1 stop or 1/2 the light of f/8. If still over exposed rtry f/16. There are also half stops you can try. It's all trial and error.
Or if you are using a bulb setting for the shutter just cut back, from say, 2 seconds to one second. Again half the light.
Learn about stops, it's the key to photography. ISO400 to ISO200 = one stop less exposure, f/8 to f/11 = one stop less exposure, 1/60th of a second to 1/120th of a second = one stop less exposure. So to reduce light you can do anyone of the three choices and get equal amounts of light hitting the sensor.
Or if you are using a bulb setting for the shutter just cut back, from say, 2 seconds to one second. Again half the light.
Learn about stops, it's the key to photography. ISO400 to ISO200 = one stop less exposure, f/8 to f/11 = one stop less exposure, 1/60th of a second to 1/120th of a second = one stop less exposure. So to reduce light you can do anyone of the three choices and get equal amounts of light hitting the sensor.
I'd recommend reducing the ISO to your camera's lowest setting (probably 100 or 200, depending on your camera). This will lower noise but it will also reduce the exposure, allowing you to keep the shutter open longer and get more bursts. Then it's trial and error- if you look at the viewscreen and it's overexposed, increase to a higher aperature or use a faster shutter speed. If you like the exposure but there aren't enough bursts, then you need to leave the shutter open longer but also make an equal stop change to the aperature in order to keep the exposure the same.
As far as focus, at WDW you could set the focus to infinity (and then back off just a bit) or you could set up, set your focus on the castle and then turn off the autofocus so that the camera doesn't continue to change focus each time.
As far as lens choice, it will depend on where you stand. I used my 24-70 and was standing at the far end of Main Street (near Roy and Minnie). I mostly shot at 24mm but ended up cropping a bit in PP.
There is a how to shoot fireworks thread on this board, probably referenced in a sticky, that is very helpful.
Hope some of this helps a little and good luck! I've only shot Wishes once myself but I will be there next Saturday!
As far as focus, at WDW you could set the focus to infinity (and then back off just a bit) or you could set up, set your focus on the castle and then turn off the autofocus so that the camera doesn't continue to change focus each time.
As far as lens choice, it will depend on where you stand. I used my 24-70 and was standing at the far end of Main Street (near Roy and Minnie). I mostly shot at 24mm but ended up cropping a bit in PP.
There is a how to shoot fireworks thread on this board, probably referenced in a sticky, that is very helpful.
Hope some of this helps a little and good luck! I've only shot Wishes once myself but I will be there next Saturday!
Here is the link to the Fireworks Tips thread: How to Shoot Fireworks
Also, there are a couple great posts on wdwphotography.com about shooting fireworks including this one: Firework Photography 101
Also, there are a couple great posts on wdwphotography.com about shooting fireworks including this one: Firework Photography 101
mom2rtk
Invented the term "Characterpalooza"
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
There were several things that could have helped, but the greatest was not understanding what "focus to infinity" meant. Bulb setting only means that you get to manually control the shutter speed. It has nothing to do with focus.
It sounds like you now understand the focus issue, so you can move on to the exposure issues. Your greatest issue there was the ISO you used. For fireworks on a tripod, you probably want ISO 100 or so. This will allow you to keep the shutter open as long as possible.
Once the ISO and F stop are set, there is only one piece of the exposure triangle left to play with, and that is shutter speed. With bulb setting, YOU get to choose. Here's where it comes down to trial and error. Keep reviewing your shots. There are no generalities here. It all depends on how bright the fireworks are. The brighter bursts will require a shorter shutter speed. The more colorful less bright bursts will allow you to keep it open longer. The shots below had shutter length between 3 and 5 seconds. These were from our summer trip to DL.
Remember when the finale comes that it is highly likely to be overexposed unless you change to a VERY short shutter speed real quick.
I was where you are right now before our fall trip last year. I knew in my head what I should be doing. The shots were all clear, but I was afraid to leave the shutter open too long. So I ended up with a lot of half open fireworks bursts. Not one was THE shot I had been hoping for. Don't be afraid to leave it open several seconds (assuming the F stop and ISO mentioned above).
Be sure to post back when you return!
It sounds like you now understand the focus issue, so you can move on to the exposure issues. Your greatest issue there was the ISO you used. For fireworks on a tripod, you probably want ISO 100 or so. This will allow you to keep the shutter open as long as possible.
Once the ISO and F stop are set, there is only one piece of the exposure triangle left to play with, and that is shutter speed. With bulb setting, YOU get to choose. Here's where it comes down to trial and error. Keep reviewing your shots. There are no generalities here. It all depends on how bright the fireworks are. The brighter bursts will require a shorter shutter speed. The more colorful less bright bursts will allow you to keep it open longer. The shots below had shutter length between 3 and 5 seconds. These were from our summer trip to DL.
Remember when the finale comes that it is highly likely to be overexposed unless you change to a VERY short shutter speed real quick.
I was where you are right now before our fall trip last year. I knew in my head what I should be doing. The shots were all clear, but I was afraid to leave the shutter open too long. So I ended up with a lot of half open fireworks bursts. Not one was THE shot I had been hoping for. Don't be afraid to leave it open several seconds (assuming the F stop and ISO mentioned above).
Be sure to post back when you return!
disneyboy2003
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2008
I'd agree with the ISO 100 and approximately f/8 for fireworks settings.
For focusing during fireworks, there are a couple things you can do.
One, see if you can "pre-focus" on the castle, before the fireworks go off. That way, anything that's within the vicinity of the castle (ie. the fireworks) should be in-focus.
Second, you can try to "pre-focus" on the first set of fireworks. When the first set of fireworks go off, set your focus point right on those trail of lights. That way, those fireworks (and all subsequent fireworks) should be in-focus.
I'm not sure if you already know how to "pre-focus" your camera. As you already know, your camera has 9 autofocus points. You will need to select one of those 9 autofocus points (ex. select the center autofocus point). Then, autofocus only on either the castle or the first set of fireworks. You do this by pressing the shutter button 1/2-way down so that the camera can pre-focus.
Once your camera is "pre-focused", you can probably switch your lens to "manual focus (MF)" so that that particular focus setting is in-place. Just be sure not to accidentally touch / twist the focus ring on your lens, or you'll end up with more out-of-focus fireworks shots. When you're done with fireworks, REMEMBER TO SWITCH YOUR LENS BACK TO AUTOFOCUS (AF)!!!
As you've already found out, the grand finale is always TONS brighter than the regular fireworks. This is where you'll probably have to use a smaller aperture (larger f-number), like probably f/16.
Hope that helps!
For focusing during fireworks, there are a couple things you can do.
One, see if you can "pre-focus" on the castle, before the fireworks go off. That way, anything that's within the vicinity of the castle (ie. the fireworks) should be in-focus.
Second, you can try to "pre-focus" on the first set of fireworks. When the first set of fireworks go off, set your focus point right on those trail of lights. That way, those fireworks (and all subsequent fireworks) should be in-focus.
I'm not sure if you already know how to "pre-focus" your camera. As you already know, your camera has 9 autofocus points. You will need to select one of those 9 autofocus points (ex. select the center autofocus point). Then, autofocus only on either the castle or the first set of fireworks. You do this by pressing the shutter button 1/2-way down so that the camera can pre-focus.
Once your camera is "pre-focused", you can probably switch your lens to "manual focus (MF)" so that that particular focus setting is in-place. Just be sure not to accidentally touch / twist the focus ring on your lens, or you'll end up with more out-of-focus fireworks shots. When you're done with fireworks, REMEMBER TO SWITCH YOUR LENS BACK TO AUTOFOCUS (AF)!!!
As you've already found out, the grand finale is always TONS brighter than the regular fireworks. This is where you'll probably have to use a smaller aperture (larger f-number), like probably f/16.
Hope that helps!
JimbobJimbo
Just_Jim
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2007
This past July 4th I shot fireworks with the following settings: ISO100,f14,Bulb Mode. Also as has been mentioned at Disney you want to auto focus on the castle then turn to manual focus to lock it in. If you want to focus to infinity the best way I've found is to auto focus on an object far away and then switch to manual focus. I usually open the shutter when the firework is launched and then close it once the firework, or group of fireworks have fully exploded. Its pretty much trial and error. Once you shoot fireworks a couple of times you kinda just know about how long to keep the shutter open.
ISO 100 / f14 / 4 seconds
ISO 100 / f14 / 11 seconds
ISO 100 / f14 / 4 seconds
ISO 100 / f14 / 11 seconds
JimbobJimbo
Just_Jim
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2007
I agree with turning off the IS.
But, the long exposure noise reduction takes the same amount of time as the original exposure. If the original exposure is 4 seconds, then the noise reduction will take an additional 4 seconds. So you wouldn't be able to take another picture until the noise reduction finishes. Plus long exposure noise reduction isn't usually needed on exposures less than 30 seconds. So I would leave it turned off, if there is noise it can be fixed later with noiseware.
Geoff_M
DIS Veteran, DVC Member, "Cum Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2000
I have found that Aperture Priority works fine for exposure since the brightness of the shells can vary a lot. I normally don't press the shutter release until the shell(s) explode. Adjust the aperture (and ISO, if needed) to allow you a shutter speed that's usable for the type of stabilization you have. If you have a tripod, or can hold the camera still by bracing the camera against an railing or lamp post, then several seconds will be fine. Here are a couple examples I hand held at the 100th Anniversary Celebration at the National Scout Jamboree this month using my D70 with a 10.5mm fisheye at 1/6 second:
Share this page
-
Tiana's Bayou Adventure Full Ride-Through at Magic Kingdom in Walt Disney World
-
Indulge With This Refreshing Disney Parks Mint Julep Recipe
-
Record-Breaking 'Moana 2' Trailer Reaches 178M Views On First Day
-
Have You Seen This Chef Mickey's Merch at Walt Disney World?
-
New Dishes Coming to Docking Bay 7 in Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge
GET A DISNEY VACATION QUOTE
Dreams Unlimited Travel is committed to providing you with the very best vacation planning experience possible. Our Vacation Planners are experts and will share their honest advice to help you have a magical vacation.
Let us help you with your next Disney Vacation!
Dreams Unlimited Travel is committed to providing you with the very best vacation planning experience possible. Our Vacation Planners are experts and will share their honest advice to help you have a magical vacation.
Let us help you with your next Disney Vacation!
