Want to "trade up" to a TT but not sure what a 3/4 ton tow vehicle means

[LarryJ]

Somebody was jerking your chain when they told you that. Now I may be wrong but a Tow package is much more than just the hitch. It generally includes a heavy duty alternator & cooling system, heavy duty suspension components, transmission cooler, 10,000lb hitch, wiring harness, a minimum of 3.73 gearing and possibly more. I don't think you is puttin' this stuff on for $700.00. Hate to say this but there are some people you should listen to and some you shouldn't. It is ALWAYS cheaper to get a Tow Package from the factory.

That sort of depends if you are buying a grocery getter and trying to tow with it or something used for work like a 3/4 T and up. The former needs extras, but the latter has most of everything except maybe for the receiver and wiring. The gearing can also be a major item. I could have gotten the 3.55, but opted for the 4.10 which was a lifesaver for my particular vehicle. The equlivant F-series had the 3.73 as standard and the 4.10 as an option.

Larry

 

[Gatordad]

Gessh what an inappropriate post and I will just ignore it since there is a post that is germane that the OP made that I need to respond to. As I said if you dont' want to contribute constructively don't post.

P.S. AND I and NOT YOU will decide where I post.

Larry

 

[keylime359]

A Harris poll of likely voters confirmed your suspicions.... 89% of those polled agreed that cabin people aren't campers.

NOT nice! We are going to be in the cabins in Oct so I can let DH fall in love with the idea of a TT. Then it will be HIS idea(to buy a TT) and being the good wifey I will agree to it. Anyway, without the cabins we would end up somewhere very sad like say All stars!

 

[clkelley]

I'm betting your truck has most of what it needs, Roger. If Ford is talking 700 bucks, it sounds like they are talking about the receiver only. I'm surprised it didn't come with it, since my dealership doesn't have an F150 on the lot that doesn't include the tow package. Generally speaking, the Ford receiver will fit better than any after market one and gives a nice, clean look with only the actual receiver exposed - the frame of it tucks nicely into the truck frame. Be sure to check the rear axle ratio and also look for a tranny cooler - once again, I would be surprised if it didn't already have one. Carol was going to have one installed on her SportTrac and I convinced her to check under the hood - sure enough, there was already one on board. If indeed you don't have the package, you will be limited by that rear axle ratio as to what you can safely and comfortably pull. I do like my F150 alot and have minimal problems over the past 3 years with it. It tows my hybrid effortlessly.

Here is the history of adding my tow package, although obviously I would never haul what an F-150 could haul.

My truck came with the 4-pin connector, transmission cooler (didn't know it at the time), and a hole in the bumper to mount a hitch ball. I needed to haul a little bitty trailer oh about 4 years ago, so Rick bought a 2" receiver direct from Ford for less than $200, and had the guys at his shop install it.
Right before I got my T@B, dad and myself installed the 7-pin and some wiring to charge the camper battery.

Another place you might check is if you have an ARE Truck Cap dealer in your area, those types of places also tend to install hitches. The one in our area is H&H. They sell truck caps, truck shells, tonneau covers, and install hitches.

 

[BigDaddyRog]

I'm betting your truck has most of what it needs, Roger. If Ford is talking 700 bucks, it sounds like they are talking about the receiver only. I'm surprised it didn't come with it, since my dealership doesn't have an F150 on the lot that doesn't include the tow package. Generally speaking, the Ford receiver will fit better than any after market one and gives a nice, clean look with only the actual receiver exposed - the frame of it tucks nicely into the truck frame. Be sure to check the rear axle ratio and also look for a tranny cooler - once again, I would be surprised if it didn't already have one. Carol was going to have one installed on her SportTrac and I convinced her to check under the hood - sure enough, there was already one on board. If indeed you don't have the package, you will be limited by that rear axle ratio as to what you can safely and comfortably pull. I do like my F150 alot and have minimal problems over the past 3 years with it. It tows my hybrid effortlessly.

Jim, thanks for bringing this up...I checked and Im pretty sure this is a transmission cooler, can anyone veryfy this?.....

I checked the widow sticker, and it DOES say 6700# GVWR PACKAGE = NO CHARGE, so apparently it IS installed...

with this...all I need to have installed is the actual hitch(is that the same as a "reciever"?) and wiring harness, is this correct????

So, I should be ok hauling my cart in the bed, and pulling a pop up with my family and gear?

Thanks guys.....I find that the information I get from ya'll is PLENTY dependable, I trust ya'lls input.


OH.....WAIT...just double checked again....it says "4 PIN TRAILER WIRING" on the sticker also...is that the wiring harness? Or is that what I connect the harness to?

 

[Gatordad]

good luck with the new wheels.

 

[BigDaddyRog]

Thanks Carol..you answered some of my questions as I was posting that.

 

[clkelley]

If you have a 4-pin, then you need to get the following:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...0101&N=111+10201+600002466&rlid=group_listing

I got mine at AutoZone. It plugs into your existing 4-pin flat, and has the extra wires for charge line, brake controller, and backup lights.

Then to install the charge line do the following:

BATTERY CHARGE RELAY INSTALLATION June 2, 2006
Tools needed:
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
Wire connector crimp tool
20 or so 3" or longer tie wraps
Parts necessary from
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032058 :
1 ea. # 275-226 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive Relay, $6.29
1 roll #278-569 35-ft 10-Gauge Hookup WireBlack, $13.99
1 pkg #270-1084 25A Blade-Type Automotive Fuses, $1.49
1 ea. #270-1234 30-Amp Inline Blade-Type Fuse Holder, $2.39
A NOTE ON FUSES - a 20A fuse can blow if the trailer battery is
extremely low and the fridge is set to run on 12V DC. Also, a #270-1085
30-Amp fuse can be used if the 25A is not sufficient. The relay is
rated at 30A and these are fast-blow fuses. However if the 25A proves
sufficient, it is better to use a fuse that blows before reaching the
maximum current rating of the relay.
1 pkg #278-1632 4" Nylon Wire Ties, $1.99
1 pkg #64-3111 12-10 Gauge Shrink Butt Connectors, $1.99
1 pkg #64-3140 Low-voltage Tap-Ins, $1.69
1 pkg #64-3120 Insulated Ring Connectors, $1.69
2 pkg #64-3137 1/4" Crimp-On Quick Disconnects, $1.69
Installation:
If your vehicle already has a trailer battery charge wire routed from
the 7-pin connector to the engine compartment, you can skip steps 1-5.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Jack up vehicle and support using stands.
3. Connect 10 gauge wire to "Battery Charge" pin of 7-pin connector.
4. Route the 10 gauge wire under the vehicle to the engine compartment.
Use tie wraps to secure the wire and keep it away from heat and
mechanical hazards.
5. Bring the 10 gauge wire up into the engine compartment near the
battery.
6. Mount the 30A relay near the battery using an existing screw, or
drill a hole for mounting.
7. Cut a 6" length of wire off the end of the 10 gauge wire.
8. Crimp a quick disconnect "female" connector to one end of the 6"
wire.
9. Crimp an ring connector to the other end of the 6" wire using a ring
with a hole large enough for the relay mounting screw to pass through.
10. Put the relay mounting screw through the ring connector on the 6"
wire and mount the relay.
11. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the low current "ground"
lug of the 30A relay.
12. Locate the positive terminal of your battery.
13. Determine if the positive battery cable already has an unused 10-12
gauge auxiliary wire. If so, simply insert one lead on the 30A fuse
holder into the butt connector provided and crimp it. Skip to step 22.
14. Otherwise if there is no visible auxiliary wire, determine if the
battery uses top mount stud or side mount cables.
15. If it is a top mount stud, select a ring connector with a hole
large
enough to clear the batter cable tightening bolt.
16. Crimp the ring connector on one lead on the 30A fuse holder.
17. Put the ring connector over the battery cable clamp bolt, reinstall
the nut, and tighten sufficiently. Skip to step 22.
18. Otherwise if the battery uses side mount cables, follow the cable
to
the starter solenoid. Disconnect the battery cable from the solenoid.
19. Select a ring connector with a hole large enough to clear the
batter
cable stud on the solenoid.
20. Crimp the ring connector on one lead on the 30A fuse holder.
21. Put the ring connector over the solenoid stud, re-install the
battery cable and nut, and tighten sufficiently.
22. Cut a length of wire off the end of the 10 gauge wire long enough
to
reach from the fuse holder to the relay. Leave enough to secure the
wire with ties.
33. Connect one end of the wire to the fuse hold using a "butt"
connector.
34. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to the other end of the wire.
35. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the high current +12V lug
of the 30A relay.
36. Route the 10-gauge wire from the 7-pin connector to the relay and
cut off leaving enough length to secure with tie wraps.
37. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to the end of the wire from the
7-pin connector.
38. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the high current negative
lug of the 30A relay (opposite side).
39. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to one end of the remaining loose
10-gauge wire.
40. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the low current positive
lug of the 30A relay (opposite the ground lug).
Now you have done the easy part ;-).
41. Locate a source of +12V switched by the ignition key (i.e. only
"hot" when the key engine is running). For older cars you may find
that
another terminal at the starter solenoid will meet this requirement.
For newer cars you can call a local automotive electrical shop, or
possibly get a wiring diagram from the library or a purchased manual.
42. Use the "Low-voltage Tapin" to connect the other end of the low
current positive wire from the 30A relay to the source of switched 12V
power.

 

[njcamper95]

did you get the long bed or the short just asking because cart may or may not fit in truck with gate up which you may need up to hook a trailer to your hitch my dodge short bed won't work can take trailer but not cart but your ford may be a little longer try it and see if you can put your gate up or if it goes up pretty close at least, mine didn't make it half way so when i would turn it would hit my gas tanks well looks like i will be getting a new truck also

 

[LONE-STAR]

Rog congrats on the new truck. Just in case the cart dose not fit in the bed of the truck don't worry. They have pop up campers with decks on the front to haul 1 or 2 carts and the price is not that bad. Here is a link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Othe...727|39:1|65:12|240:1308&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

[big kahuna1]

I did not mean to hurt anyone's feelings with my post regarding tow packages but I do not consider a hitch a tow package. If I would have read the posts a page or two back I would have worded my post diiferenly knowing that the tow package being discussed was considered the hitch and wiring harness. So I apologize.

Rog,

That does look like a tranny cooler. I still believe you would have been far better off buying the tow package but that is neither here nor there at this point. You need to take the truck to a hitch place and have them install a Class III hitch and the wiring harness. Sometimes the truck will be prewired for a simple plug in wiring harness for both the tail lights and the brake controller if one is necessary. Good Luck!

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

Rog, that looks like a trans cooler to me. To be 100% sure you would need to find the options code plate (usually in the glovebox) that gives the option codes that were installed from the factory. Your dealer should be able to print one out based on the VIN and tell you exactly what that truck has on it.
What are you planning on towing with it ? either I missed it or you didnt say.

The brake controller and charge line for the trailer battery MAY already have some of the wiring in the original harness to the back, quite often they are taped into the harness and just not connected. As far as adding them yourself, I would avoid that unless you are familiar with 12V automotive wiring. You could cause yourself considerable grief if the wire isnt connected and routed properly. Any wire you add to the truck should be shielded in wire loom if you are running it underneath.
You may get some advertisements once the DMV sells your new truck info (they do it up here) so check your mail for possible places that can do this work for you.
If you lived a little closer I could hook you up but I doubt some free wiring would be worth the drive.

 

[stacktester]

In 1993 I bought a brand new Chevy dually single cab. I'm quite sure it had the towing package lol. What happens is, the person at the dealer who orders these trucks leaves things off and I ended up having to put a dang hitch on it. What did they think I was going to do with it, lower it and put a boom box in it lol.

 

[DisneyBishops]

Rog congrats on the new wheels. Glad we talked you into a Ford. If you got longbed then gc should fit fine.

 

[BRDof3]

Rog, before you buy any wiring harnesses, check the glove box of the truck. When I installed the brake controller I discovered that the plug-in harness for the controller was in the glove box, saved me from having to buy one. You might find what you need there.

Good luck, enjoy the wheels, and make sure you brag about them a little!

 

[musicmama]

Congrats on the new wheels, Roger (and wow - look at all the info you got!). I'm jealous, but nowhere ready to buy. I think I might be replacing - as in completely - the brakes in my Santa Fe before October inspection.

 

[BigDaddyRog]

good luck with the new wheels.

Thanks, Pete!!

Wow Carol...talk about informative!!!!

I did not mean to hurt anyone's feelings with my post regarding tow packages but I do not consider a hitch a tow package.

Oh PLEASE....I need ALL the info....Ive never owned an actual truck before(tons of cars & motorcycles, a few vans and a couple of SUVs)...I dont know anything about trucks except for the obvious, and need all the info I can get!!!

Congrats on the new wheels, Roger (and wow - look at all the info you got!). I'm jealous, but nowhere ready to buy. I think I might be replacing - as in completely - the brakes in my Santa Fe before October inspection.

musicmama, I honestly didnt mean to hijack your thread!!! Im really sorry about that.

 

[clkelley]

Thanks, Pete!!

Wow Carol...talk about informative!!!!

Oh by the way Rog, until you DO get your camper, if you want to tow a small utility trailer with your golf cart on it, all you really need to do is put a hitch ball in that hole in the bumper and connect the 4-pin as is for lights/brakes/turn signals. However, if you go ahead and install the hitch receiver, you'll be able to control the height of the utility trailer by purchasing an appropriate hitch bar with the necessary drop to make the utility trailer level.

 

[MadFF]

musicmama, I honestly didnt mean to hijack your thread!!! Im really sorry about that.

I don't know about "hijacking", as it is more info about trucks!

As to tow packages... I'm kinda surprised your truck doesn't have a "tow package", as it is almost standard equipment these days. If you can, have a Ford mechanic look over the truck and find info on it if he can. You may very well have most of a "tow package" already "pre-installed".

Most trucks today have "plug -n- play" wiring harnesses -- if you need any kind of plug at the bumper, a local auto parts store (I use NAPA) will probably have what you need that just plugs into the existing wiring behind the bumper, and mounts on the bumper. If you already have a 4-pin trailer plug, you may be all set for a utility trailer or small popup. If you are thinking of a trailer with electric brakes then you have to look into a brake controller mounted under/in the dashboard and probably a full size round "RV" plug (in which case, as previously mentioned, you may want an experienced mechanic install that).

I would suggest getting a receiver hitch mounted on your truck. That way you can hook up all different variations of trailers (with different ball sizes) just by sliding in a new hitch. And you don't have to worry about damaging your bumper. Most bumpers, unless it is heavy duty / commercial / aftermarket, just aren't all that heavy duty and don't have very high trailer ratings. And... from the looks of that window sticker, if it is a nice looking custom bumper you don't want to be messing it up!

Do you have any pictures of the new truck? It "reads" like a good looking vehicle!

 

[musicmama]

Hey Roger, don't feel bad. It's not hijacking if there's info that will help me out too! As I said awhile ago, I wasn't even thinking about the hitch - but given the nature of the recent posts, that needs to be an important part of the list too.

I need to go back and find out what kind of new truck and what you're towing. That price sticker was a lot smaller than I expected. Every time DH and I went TV-hunting, the first digit was between 3 and 5 and if the first digit was a 3, the second digit was between 5 and 9. Your sticker price is much less than that!