Living in Color (TDR Report Summer 2023)

Kestryl

DIS Veteran
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
I’m a bit overdue on this trip report, but hey, better late than never!

We went to Tokyo Disney Resort for five days, four nights, from June 4-8, 2023. This was our first time visiting TDR. Actually, it was our first time in Japan! Our entire trip ran May 31-June 15 (with the first and last days as travel days).

A short background: We are two adults, 30s, married, no kids. We’ve been to Disneyland Resort (Anaheim) once (fall 2019), Disneyland Paris Resort once (summer 2022), and Disney World… well, quite a few times now, in varying degrees of staying a week onsite to a single night event as part of a Florida trip.

I’ll be mostly focusing on the Disney part of our trip, but I’ll include a bit from before Disney and after Disney. Our general order was Tokyo, Tokyo Disney, and Osaka (with day trips to Kobe, Hiroshima, Nara, and Kyoto).

If you have any questions, whether it's about the TDR part of our trip or the rest of our Japan trip, feel free to ask!
 
Pre-Tokyo Disney: Tokyo

We departed for our trip on May 31 and landed in Tokyo June 1. It was a long flight, but not too bad. We flew Delta- it was the cheapest option for us, coming from Tennessee. Once we landed, we got through passport control relatively quickly and painlessly and picked up a Pasmo card. These cards were our reloadable “tickets” for much of our local travel throughout Japan. We used a mix of paying with Pasmo for local trains and buses and the JR Pass for longer hauls (and some shorter trips) in the back half of our trip. The JR Pass was good for seven days on any approved JR line. We specifically bought the JR Pass because we knew our longer hauls (Tokyo to Osaka, Osaka to Hiroshima and back) would cost more than the pass itself, and we figured we could use it on shorter trips. At the time, the pass was about $245 per person. I believe it’s going up soon, so it may not be as valuable as it was for our trip.

I should also point out that we each had a full-size suitcase and a backpack. We also brought duffel bags, because I knew we’d buy… a lot of stuff. So while we started off this two-week trip pretty light, we ended up hauling around quite a lot by the end. Still, we were able to manage it all on public transport.

For our arrival day, after we checked in to our hotel in the Shiodome district, we hit up Meiji Jingu (a shrine) and the Shibuya area. Shibuya has a Disney Store, and it is wonderfully themed with lots of mockup set pieces and a fun spiral staircase. This is what I miss with the US Disney Stores shutting down! We also grabbed dinner at a conveyor belt sushi place. I won’t say it’s the best sushi I ever had, but from a price to quality ratio it was really good.

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On our first full day, we visited some more shrines and ate at themed cafes. For lunch, we ate at Artnia, with is a tiny, classy café centered around Square Enix (ex. Kingdom Hearts, Final Fantasy). Our pancakes were delicious. I need to figure out how to make pancakes in that fluffy style. We had dinner at the Pokémon Café. The food was ok- nothing special. But, I mean, you don’t go to the Pokémon Café for food quality, you go for the Pokémon theme. We spent… a lot of money in the neighboring Pokémon Center. The merchandise is just too cute to pass up!

The next day brought more shrine and temple visiting, including Azabu Hikawu (featured in Sailor Moon), Toshogu, and Sensō-ji. We also wandered the Imperial Gardens and did some more shopping, namely at the Studio Ghibli stores (Donguri Republic) and Pokémon Centers. It wasn’t really the goal to buy a bunch while shopping- the main goal was to see the photo ops and statues they have on display. Oh, and Don Quijote, which is a discount store chain that we visited to pick up snacks (like Kit Kats) and random souvenirs. We stumbled upon a food festival for lunch, where we ate “American long potatoes” (fries), shioyaki (whole fish on a stick), and meat skewers. Dinner was ramen at this random place we found on Google.

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Our next day was our trip to Tokyo Disney Resort.
 
TDR Day 1: Arrival

To get to Tokyo Disney, we took the Keiyo line from Tokyo Station to Maihama Station. Tokyo Station is massive and absolute chaos. But the closer you get to the resort, the more people you’ll see in Disney gear!

Before heading to our hotel, we went to Ikspiari, Tokyo’s version of Downtown Disney, for some quick lunch at… McDonald’s. We just wanted something quick. The McDonald’s was CHAOS. We ordered online for pickup and I grabbed a table the second it opened. This was… just McDonald’s. It didn’t taste like anything special. Total cost was $11.39 for a cheeseburger meal and a chicken nugget meal.

We then headed to the Ambassador Hotel through Ikspiari. This was the most we saw of the shopping center, as we elected to spend as much time as we could in the parks and hotels. There seemed to be a lot of American restaurants, and a lot of general shopping. But I can do that anywhere- I can’t visit Tokyo Disney everywhere!

It took a bit to find the Ambassador Hotel. We got turned around quite a bit while looking for it. There weren’t obvious signs for the entrance from the courtyard we ended up in. But thankfully we found our way to the lobby.

Our original plan was to check in with our bags and head to the parks, but apparently, I had thought it would take longer to get to the hotel than it actually did. Check-in was promptly at 3, and we didn’t have early check-in as an option. At first, I thought we could just hang around the lobby for a bit, so I grabbed a Coke from the little market. But then I realized I wanted to get to the park ASAP. We ended up dropping off our bags to be delivered to our room later. I avoid doing this as much as possible in general, but this was actually a pretty painless process.

Because we were staying onsite, we were able to buy tickets at the hotel counter each day of our stay. For our first day, tickets to Disneyland were $64 each. Only $64! Amazing.

And with that, we got on the bus to take us to Tokyo Disneyland.
 
Subbing in as this seems like our kind of trip - Disney and gaming 🤣

They're shutting down the Disney stores in the US? 😲 I guess the chances of us getting any back in Australia are pretty minimal then!
 


Subbing in as this seems like our kind of trip - Disney and gaming 🤣

They're shutting down the Disney stores in the US? 😲 I guess the chances of us getting any back in Australia are pretty minimal then!
They already have except for a handful of outlet stores.
Yeah, it’s sad. The one by us closed a few years ago, and we’ve just been watching them go out one by one.
 
Your pre Tokyo Disneyland trip sounds exactly what I did when I went back in 2019. I'm taking my sister next year who is a massive anime + gaming fan so we will be hanging out in Akihabara.

She wants to go to the Pokemon Cafe (I've been before and I agree with your opinion). I somehow was able to get a reservation back then but could you refresh me on how that process works? I've looked into it and it's so daunting lol It's one of her must dos in Japan.

I look forward to reading your other parts btw! I like hearing recent experiences so I can prep for my trip. Your trip was also the exact time I went (late May/early June) and the heat was too much for me though TDR crowds weren't terrible. Longest lines were for quick service places and food carts.
 


I would absolutely stay clear of the Square Enix cafe in Akihabara, the one in Shinjuku is way better. I was actually pretty disappointed in the Akihabara one, it has a gacha menu (the food you get is randomized) and it wasn't even that good. The artina cafe/store also has way more merch.
 
Your pre Tokyo Disneyland trip sounds exactly what I did when I went back in 2019. I'm taking my sister next year who is a massive anime + gaming fan so we will be hanging out in Akihabara.

She wants to go to the Pokemon Cafe (I've been before and I agree with your opinion). I somehow was able to get a reservation back then but could you refresh me on how that process works? I've looked into it and it's so daunting lol It's one of her must dos in Japan.

I look forward to reading your other parts btw! I like hearing recent experiences so I can prep for my trip. Your trip was also the exact time I went (late May/early June) and the heat was too much for me though TDR crowds weren't terrible. Longest lines were for quick service places and food carts.
Sure! So for the Pokemon Cafe, reservations are available at 6:00 PM (local Tokyo/Osaka time) 31 days ahead of the desired date. I actually got a super clutch tip that if everything seems booked up immediately, refresh about 20 minutes later. This worked well for us- at first there were zero reservations available, and then voila, 20 minutes later half the day was back. This may have changed or change in the future, of course, but something to keep in mind.

I was surprised by what felt like low crowds, especially in the later part of the day (and especially when it rained- more on that later!).
 
I would absolutely stay clear of the Square Enix cafe in Akihabara, the one in Shinjuku is way better. I was actually pretty disappointed in the Akihabara one, it has a gacha menu (the food you get is randomized) and it wasn't even that good. The artina cafe/store also has way more merch.
That's good to know! We never made it to those (so many places, so little time), and it seemed like you need a reservation for those two? For Artnia, it was first come, first serve. We ran a little late and got there right after opening, so we had to wait an hour, but that gave us time to visit some shrines in the rain. I bought a chocobo plush, it was super cute. :)
 
Sure! So for the Pokemon Cafe, reservations are available at 6:00 PM (local Tokyo/Osaka time) 31 days ahead of the desired date. I actually got a super clutch tip that if everything seems booked up immediately, refresh about 20 minutes later. This worked well for us- at first there were zero reservations available, and then voila, 20 minutes later half the day was back. This may have changed or change in the future, of course, but something to keep in mind.

I was surprised by what felt like low crowds, especially in the later part of the day (and especially when it rained- more on that later!).
Thanks for the info! I have NO clue how I managed to get a slot all those years ago especially since I've read that the Nihonbashi location is super hard to get reservations for.

Aw, I'm sorry to hear it rained on your days! It rained during my trip too though not when I was at the parks. It rained the day I planned to go to Hakone and there was zero visibility of Mt. Fuji :L

I also look forward to hearing your thoughts on Kyoto. We plan on staying in Kyoto as one of our "bases" so any recent experiences would be very helpful! : )
 
Thanks for the info! I have NO clue how I managed to get a slot all those years ago especially since I've read that the Nihonbashi location is super hard to get reservations for.

Aw, I'm sorry to hear it rained on your days! It rained during my trip too though not when I was at the parks. It rained the day I planned to go to Hakone and there was zero visibility of Mt. Fuji :L

I also look forward to hearing your thoughts on Kyoto. We plan on staying in Kyoto as one of our "bases" so any recent experiences would be very helpful! : )
Actually, I totally appreciated the rain, it cleared people out and we got a very interesting parade because of it! ;)
 
TDR Day 1: Tokyo Disneyland

The bus ride was quick and we were dropped off near the front of the park. The entrance area was pretty empty, with only a few checkpoints open.

I immediately headed to a shop and bought a Donald Duck headband- which was only $13. Have I mentioned how cheap some of the merchandise is relative to the US parks? Ears were around $15, t-shirts were about $20, plush ran $15-40 (for some of the more exclusive plush). And it’s all super cute, with lots of exclusive and limited merch. In general, if you see something you like, buy it then, because that may be the only place to sell it. We bought a lot of stuff over the next few days.

Our first ride: Star Tours. You know the spiel from the safety instructor droid, and how at one point in the US park version she switches to Spanish? The Japanese version is obviously in Japanese, and she switches to English for a brief moment. We noticed this in Paris as well- it just amuses me. Anyways, even if you’ve done Star Tours elsewhere, it’s still fun to experience this ride, and the wait never seemed long. Plus, there’s this nice nod to the Haunted Mansion in the queue, with three hitchhiking droids.

We took a quick detour to Toontown, which seemed chaotic. Seriously, it was like everyone was there. We took a run through Donald’s boat and I grabbed a popsicle. OMG, the popsicles! I want these in the US parks. There was a Mickey “tropical fruit” flavor (orange colored) and a Minnie peach and raspberry (colored pink). Only $2.51 each, and delicious!

By the way, we were able to use credit cards at every cart. We had read some older reports that some may only take cash, but that wasn’t our experience. This may be a post-covid effect.

We then hit up it’s a small world, which included the Disney characters throughout. I’m sure there’s a breakdown on the differences here, but nothing groundbreaking.

The line for Pooh’s Hunny Hunt seemed manageable- 25 minutes, I think, so we jumped in that. I LOVED this ride. It is so stinking cute. I know that Enchanted Tale of Beauty and the Beast gets a lot of credit, and yes, it’s fantastic (more on that later), but this Pooh ride is adorable and the wait is not nearly as long as Enchanted Tale, so I think the time investment and quality combination make this a better “value.” (That may be a controversial take!)

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Then it was Haunted Mansion, which isn’t noticeably different from the Magic Kingdom version. (In contrast with the Paris version, which is very different!) Well, much of it is in Japanese, of course. Oh, and no one brought out their phone lights, which was a big improvement from many pervious experiences in US parks!

We had dinner at the Polynesian Terrace. This was a reservation I had made about a month before our stay. A bit on reservations- I think hotel guests have a separate “bucket” of reservations to pull from, as I didn’t understand I could make reservations through my hotel booking at first. I had tried from the public group, which had almost no availability 30 days out, then eventually stumbled into a different page through my booking with lots more availability. I still don’t quite understand the process, but we were able to get everything we wanted. I tried to book a table restaurant a day to guarantee we had a set time to eat, but I think we would have survived just fine on the snack stands around the parks!

Back to the Polynesian Terrace. We were not allowed to check in more than 10 minutes before our reservation time, and we were only sent to the actual restaurant at our exact reservation time. This held pretty true for the rest of our trip- timing was precise, and getting there early offered you no favors.

At the time, they did not have the luau or stage show. It was just a restaurant. The food was decent, if not the most exciting. My husband got some steak and rice plate with a shrimp cocktail appetizer that I ate. I ordered the fluffy pancakes, which were great. (Who can deny the magical fluffy pancakes?) Total cost was $36.48- incredibly reasonable for a sit-down dining experience at a theme park!

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We headed over to Pirates of the Caribbean, which is in the most non-descript building. (Seriously, it’s a let down after Magic Kingdom’s and Paris’s versions.) The ride is much like Magic Kingdom’s, with at least one notable difference. They still have the wench/bride auction, which is a bit of a trip if you’re used to the US versions!

We then did the Tiki Room. This version is officially the Enchanted Tiki Room: Stitch Presents Aloha E Komo Mai!, and it is markedly different that the “classic” version. As you can guess, Stitch features heavily in this version. The four host birds have different names- and one is a female! The songs are also mostly different. They don’t sing the standard Tiki Room song, and mainly feature songs from Lilo & Stitch (the movies and series). It’s a lot of fun, even if I had no firm idea what was going on! (Basically Stitch wanted to be included in the show.)

For our last ride, we hit up Snow White’s Adventures, which has the weird ending where the dwarfs and the transformed Queen are on the cliff. No “happy ending” scene here, just imagine it, folks!

All in all, we were at the park for about six hours.

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TDR Day 1: A Few Notes

I want to comment a bit on operations in the parks.

First of all, whatever the wait time listed is likely correct. Our experiences in the US parks were that the wait times are inflated. In Paris, they could be too much or too little, which made planning pretty difficult (especially when the actual wait time was more than the listed wait time). But in Japan, there were only a few times where the wait time was more than five minutes off.

Second, the general premise for rides in the US is that you just need to get in line before the park closes. It’s our favorite way to do headliners we’ve done before- jump in at the end of the night, two minutes before close, and stroll our in a near-empty park. This does not work at TDR. They close the lines early. Nominally they should close the line so that the last person to ride gets on at closing, but this burned us really bad for Sindbad’s Storybook Voyage on our last night, where the wait time was listed at five minutes, and they closed 20 minutes early. So I’m not sure what the official policy is, but just keep in mind that your approach to rides with longer waits may need to change from your US park style. They also close the shops right at park close. There may be a few exceptions, but don’t count on it. If you want something, buy it then.

Many ride cast members would repeat basic load instructions in English, but this didn’t always happen. Thankfully we are well versed in how ride loading works that we never ran into a problem. To be clear, I did NOT expect them to do everything in English. We are the visitors here, it’s on us to acclimate as best we can!

Also, we experienced zero line cutting, well-defined queues, efficient loading, and exceptionally clean parks.

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TDR Day 1: Ambassador Hotel

Our first two nights were in a Donald Duck room at the Ambassador Hotel. We paid a deposit of $229.91 for our four nights, with the rest broken down to $526 for two nights at the Ambassador Hotel and $855.62 at MiraCosta. So a total of $1611.53 for four nights, two in a character room at Ambassador and two for a non-DisneySea park view at MiraCosta.

The Donald room was incredibly spacious, with two beds. TDR calls these twin beds, but I think they were just a bit smaller than what we call double beds. There was also a couch and table with two chairs. And of course the theming was just so, so cute, with Donald Duck wallpaper and red bow pillows and duck feet headboards and so many little “Donald” details. Words do not describe how cute this room is. I somewhat regret not stealing the red bow pillow, but I realize that stealing is wrong. The shower/bath was off to one side of the sink, and the toilet in another. They gave us reusable shopping bags, slippers, toothbrushes, cups, and little Donald Duck theme pouches- new sets for each night. Also, pajamas! The pajamas aren’t for you to take home, but you can wear them during your stay. And you know what, I did. (Actually, I wore the provided pajamas at each of our hotels- hey, it was one less thing to pack!)

Our bags were in our room when we came in for the night. Truly, the service at the hotels was excellent.

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Following along. Thanks for sharing . I am planning a trip to Japan in June 2024. I'm thinking of 4 or 5 nights at either the Ambassador or Disneyland Hotel (if we can get it of course). I'm also looking at the Hilton Tokyo Bay or Grand Nikko as back ups.
 
TDR Day 1: A Few Notes

I want to comment a bit on operations in the parks.

First of all, whatever the wait time listed is likely correct. Our experiences in the US parks were that the wait times are inflated. In Paris, they could be too much or too little, which made planning pretty difficult (especially when the actual wait time was more than the listed wait time). But in Japan, there were only a few times where the wait time was more than five minutes off.

Second, the general premise for rides in the US is that you just need to get in line before the park closes. It’s our favorite way to do headliners we’ve done before- jump in at the end of the night, two minutes before close, and stroll our in a near-empty park. This does not work at TDR. They close the lines early. Nominally they should close the line so that the last person to ride gets on at closing, but this burned us really bad for Sindbad’s Storybook Voyage on our last night, where the wait time was listed at five minutes, and they closed 20 minutes early. So I’m not sure what the official policy is, but just keep in mind that your approach to rides with longer waits may need to change from your US park style. They also close the shops right at park close. There may be a few exceptions, but don’t count on it. If you want something, buy it then.

Many ride cast members would repeat basic load instructions in English, but this didn’t always happen. Thankfully we are well versed in how ride loading works that we never ran into a problem. To be clear, I did NOT expect them to do everything in English. We are the visitors here, it’s on us to acclimate as best we can!

Also, we experienced zero line cutting, well-defined queues, efficient loading, and exceptionally clean parks.

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I agree with the times posted, they are really on point. the parks are spotless, as well everywhere we went in Tokyo was clean, even in the train stations, and trains are clean. As well the weather reports are accurate.
 
he parks are spotless, as well everywhere we went in Tokyo was clean

We recently returned to Australia from Tokyo. In our first few days back home, when out at the parks, etc our toddler kept pointing out litter and asking "what's that". During our time in Japan, she had obviously become very accustomed to a standard of cleanliness and tidiness that is not matched at home!
 
So excited for the rest of your trip report! You have already started answering questions I have been having haha
 
Following along. Thanks for sharing . I am planning a trip to Japan in June 2024. I'm thinking of 4 or 5 nights at either the Ambassador or Disneyland Hotel (if we can get it of course). I'm also looking at the Hilton Tokyo Bay or Grand Nikko as back ups.
The Disneyland Hotel looked gorgeous! We were considering there as well, but I really wanted to stay in that Donald room, ha. I will say if you end up in a situation where you can't get everything at one Disney hotel, but can with a split stay, the transfer "process" was really easy.
 

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