I'm glad to hear you say that - my brother was pushing back at the idea of needing a guide with us at the sites (which actually makes larger tours a little more appealing as they seem to provide that more often than the little private tours).It used to be part of the trip, so I can't rec a guide, but it's really wonderful! But you really, really need a guide to take you through it and explain what you're seeing!
Sayhello